In the past, women in pants were not considered respectable. It was thought to be bad for young girls to dress up like boys or get themselves made up in any way that would tend to make them look masculine.

But even in these extreme social circumstances, there were some bold women who wore pants. Not only did they dress like men, but they also demanded the same rights, social status, and freedom. They wanted to go out and earn a living on their own.

”Women in pants” by Catherine Smith and Cynthia  Grieg, a well-written and illustrated book, has a striking collection of photographs from the 1850s to 1920’s showing women in bloomers, trousers, and pants rather than corsets and bustles. There are brilliant images of women wearing men’s suits. It not only has the pictures of the elite class but also of the low-income working class, like the farmers and soldiers.

     Amelia Bloomer, editor of a feminist newspaper, introduced bloomers in 1849.

“Bloomers are loose, baggy trousers gathered into tight bands at the ankle and waist.”

These are also known as harem pants. Amelia was a feminist, but she got attracted to pants, which at that time were considered masculine, and began to wear pants in public with mid-calf length skirts, which looked ridiculous. Though it was criticized by people because of its masculine look, there were still women who adapted to this style, like Elizabeth Cady Stanton and Susan B Anthony, women's rights leaders.

“Mrs. Bloomer turned the trousers into a uniform of rebellion……………….challenging the long tradition of who in the family wore pants.”

In the 19th century, women, while riding horses, used to wear trousers under full-length skirts. In 1858, Julia Holmes climbed Pikes Peak in Colorado [14,110 feet] wearing bloomers on August 5.

World War 1 prompted women to work as hard as men; they had to look after their families while the men were at war, and some even had to go to war. While doing these jobs of men, women could not wear full-length skirts, so they wore pants while working, but as the war ended, women returned to their old dresses.

Coco Chanel, in the late 20’s, made pants acceptable for women; with her tailored suits, she revolutionized women’s fashion.

In 1930, Margaret Haughawout, ­­­­­­­a writer, while researching for an article on men’s clothing bought a suit for herself and wore it in functions. She wore them long before they were considered acceptable. After wearing pants she came to a conclusion that pants are more comfortable economical and practical.

From 1939 to 1945, World War 2 imposed serious restrictions on the fashion industry. Clothes were produced in a limited amount and were very simple. Fashion was not at all emphasized because all the money was spent on war. Lengths were cut short for women’s dresses, and no extra trimmings were done.

Women started wearing trousers as there was a shortage of stockings. Apart from this, due to a shortage of labour, as men had to go to war, women had to work; they had to do jobs like welding, building, etc. For these kinds of jobs, women’s clothing was not appropriate, so they adopted slacks and coveralls.

Rosie the Riveter was an image of a woman who influenced others to come and join the workforce during world war 2, she is shown wearing pants doing jobs for men.

In the 1950s, slacks like clam diggers and pedal pushers were worn for sportswear. Audrey Hepburn in 50’s made bold and glamorous statements by wearing pants in movies.

In 1951, Katherine Hepburn, a Hollywood actress, began wearing stylish pants in public, nearly a century after the bloomers were introduced. A widespread revolution in women’s clothes finally took place. Katherine Hepburn was a major pioneer of pants. Even in the 1950s, pants were not considered acceptable for women at such places.

In 1966, Yves Saint Laurent [YSL] introduced women’s pant suits, but they were not acceptable for all sorts of occasions, e.g., restaurants. After YSL’s early 70s pant suits dazzled the fashionable world, perennial best-dressed socialite Nan Kempner was informed by the maître d of Manhattan’s fancy French restaurant du jour that this costume was not acceptable.

Jeans were the first trousers to put men and women on equal terms. In the 1970s, women wore hot pants. Jeans were popular, but it was the new hip-hugger style. The waistband was tied at the hip bone. Bell-bottom pants were also popular in the 70’s, as were pant suits for working areas.

Pants rule these days for women. Jeans are the most comfortable and popular dress for women in the 20th century. We can find any style or trend we want, and we can get them custom-made. It is acceptable for women.

“We love pant suits in particular, because they are pulled together yet comfortable, practical, and multi-useable.”

“Pants suits scales grew 167% between 1990 and 1995 in the U.S.”

 Pants have given women liberation, freedom from being tied in corsets and hidden under huge volumes of gowns. It has given them a look of authority, a freedom of expression, and a feeling of relaxation.     

Muhammad Fawad Noori

http://www.coroflot.com/fadnoori

https://pakistanihero.com/muhammad-fawad-noori-global-fashion-designer/